I recently helped out homeowners with a mold problem amd it got me thinking about giving some tips on preventing mold. Its a time consuming and expensive problem to fix once you have a problem so a little prevention can go a long way.
Other than just having a high humidity level in the home (due to humid climate), water leaks and other forms of water intrusion into the home or building is the most common reason.
Daily work and helpful tips from a Certified General Contractor running a successful construction company in Naples,Fl.
Friday, November 11, 2011
Monday, September 12, 2011
A few tips on a greener more energy efficient home
Get a Paint Job: A new coat of paint can re-energize a home's decor and make it healthier, too. Traditional paints emit harmful volatile organic compounds (often called VOCs). Instead of exposing your family to these harmful fumes, opt for new "low" to "no VOC" options on the market today.
ENERGY STAR® Upgrade: Cut down on your energy consumption by upgrading to new Energy Star-rated appliances and electronics. The organization has placed its blue star of approval on everything from dehumidifiers and refrigerators to ceiling fans and DVD players. Each product is designed to run more efficiently, reducing its "operating cost." For even better results, remember to unplug all electronics while not in use.
Keep a Tight Seal: No matter how great your HVAC system, you won't see the results if you do not protect your home from uncontrolled air leakage those spots around your windows and doors where your expensive heated or cooled air slips outside, virtually unnoticed. New caulking and weather stripping around windows and doors is a big help.
Love Low-E: Short for “low emissivity,” these state-of-the-art windows improve the insulation value of the window itself. This is a more significant upgrade to consider, but if you live in an older home, it can make a huge different on your utility bills, and make your home far more comfortable, too.
For help with any of these ideas or to talk about other energy efficient improvements to your home contact Naples Construction Group at (239) 825-1866 or visit our website http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com/
ENERGY STAR® Upgrade: Cut down on your energy consumption by upgrading to new Energy Star-rated appliances and electronics. The organization has placed its blue star of approval on everything from dehumidifiers and refrigerators to ceiling fans and DVD players. Each product is designed to run more efficiently, reducing its "operating cost." For even better results, remember to unplug all electronics while not in use.
Keep a Tight Seal: No matter how great your HVAC system, you won't see the results if you do not protect your home from uncontrolled air leakage those spots around your windows and doors where your expensive heated or cooled air slips outside, virtually unnoticed. New caulking and weather stripping around windows and doors is a big help.
Love Low-E: Short for “low emissivity,” these state-of-the-art windows improve the insulation value of the window itself. This is a more significant upgrade to consider, but if you live in an older home, it can make a huge different on your utility bills, and make your home far more comfortable, too.
For help with any of these ideas or to talk about other energy efficient improvements to your home contact Naples Construction Group at (239) 825-1866 or visit our website http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com/
Friday, September 2, 2011
How To Pick A Home Builder
Plan. Many people don't get what they want because they don't know what they want. Be prepared to tell the home builder exactly what you have in mind. A few points to consider include what uses the home will serve, exterior and interior appearance, square footage, if you want gardens or storage, number of bathrooms, and type of plumbing and lighting fixtures.
Budget. You want your original plan to accommodate all your desires. If all your desires put you over your budget, it's time to modify. A good home builder will be able to suggest as few modifications as necessary so you can get within your budget without losing the dream.
Make a list. I recommend making a preliminary list of reputable home builders in your area. Recommendations, word of mouth, online rating systems, newspapers and magazines make good resources for compiling your list. Remember with Large companies who build hundreds of homes a year that you will be just one in a pond of many. Also, you will have a superintendent overseeing your home not a general contractor. Where as with smaller companies the owner/operator who should be a general contractor will more likely be running your job.
Conduct interviews. It's important to have all your preparation finished by the time you interview the builders. You're in charge. They work for you. Make sure they can give you what you want. It's best to schedule all interviews in advance; this can help you resist the temptation to sign with the first builder you interview. Find out how long the business has been around, and ask about relevant experience, financial status of the builder's license and its insurance coverage. Also, go on your gut feeling. You should feel comfortable talking to him.
Call us when your ready to build your dream home- (239) 825-1866
Visit our website- http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com/
Budget. You want your original plan to accommodate all your desires. If all your desires put you over your budget, it's time to modify. A good home builder will be able to suggest as few modifications as necessary so you can get within your budget without losing the dream.
Make a list. I recommend making a preliminary list of reputable home builders in your area. Recommendations, word of mouth, online rating systems, newspapers and magazines make good resources for compiling your list. Remember with Large companies who build hundreds of homes a year that you will be just one in a pond of many. Also, you will have a superintendent overseeing your home not a general contractor. Where as with smaller companies the owner/operator who should be a general contractor will more likely be running your job.
Conduct interviews. It's important to have all your preparation finished by the time you interview the builders. You're in charge. They work for you. Make sure they can give you what you want. It's best to schedule all interviews in advance; this can help you resist the temptation to sign with the first builder you interview. Find out how long the business has been around, and ask about relevant experience, financial status of the builder's license and its insurance coverage. Also, go on your gut feeling. You should feel comfortable talking to him.
Call us when your ready to build your dream home- (239) 825-1866
Visit our website- http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com/
Friday, August 5, 2011
MORE TIPS FOR HURRICANE PROOFING YOUR HOME
Pay special attention to three key areas: the roof, the windows, and the doors -- including the garage door, if you have one.
1. STORM- PROOF THE ROOF
First determine what type of roof you have. Homes with gabled roofs are more likely to suffer damage from high winds. A gable roof can be strengthened by installing additional braces in the trusses and/or at the gable ends.
2.STORM- PROOF THE WINDOWS
The easiest and most effective way to protect windows and glass doors is to install storm shutters.
3. STORM- PROOF THE DOORS
Most doors do not have bolts or pins strong enough to withstand storm-force winds. The American Red Cross recommends installing additional bolts, costing from $10 to $40. Garage doors can be strengthened by installing horizontal bracing in each panel. Bracing kits can often be purchased from garage door manufacturers. You may also need to add stronger supports and heavier hinges for your garage doors.
Give us a call to have your home inspected today. Let us see what we can do for you to get your home hurricane ready.
Naples Construction Group - 239-825-1866
Visit our Website to view all the services we offer
http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com
1. STORM- PROOF THE ROOF
First determine what type of roof you have. Homes with gabled roofs are more likely to suffer damage from high winds. A gable roof can be strengthened by installing additional braces in the trusses and/or at the gable ends.
2.STORM- PROOF THE WINDOWS
The easiest and most effective way to protect windows and glass doors is to install storm shutters.
3. STORM- PROOF THE DOORS
Most doors do not have bolts or pins strong enough to withstand storm-force winds. The American Red Cross recommends installing additional bolts, costing from $10 to $40. Garage doors can be strengthened by installing horizontal bracing in each panel. Bracing kits can often be purchased from garage door manufacturers. You may also need to add stronger supports and heavier hinges for your garage doors.
Give us a call to have your home inspected today. Let us see what we can do for you to get your home hurricane ready.
Naples Construction Group - 239-825-1866
Visit our Website to view all the services we offer
http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
help for "do it yourselfers": Preparing your home for a Hurricane
help for "do it yourselfers": Preparing your home for a Hurricane: "It's something we cannot change or avoid when you live in Florida. It's a fact of life. So once again I am thinking about getting my custome..."
Preparing your home for a Hurricane
Saturday, July 23, 2011
How to install chainlink fence
Before Starting Find out if you are required to obtain building and zoning permits.
Will your fence meet neighborhood deed restrictions.
Establish property lines.
Have your underground utilities located. (Blue staked)
If you are having your fence installed by someone, are they covered by Workman’s Compensations Insurance?
Useful tools for installing chain link fence Tape Measure
Level
Pliers
Wire Cutters
Sledge Hammer
Post Hole Digger
Wheelbarrow, Shovel and Hoe to Mix and Transport Concrete
Hacksaw or Pipe Cutter
String / Mason Line and Stakes
Crescent Wrench
Fence Stretcher (ratchet type power pull, block and tackle, or similar device may be used. Most wire stretching tools can be borrowed or locally rented.)
Step 1 - Survey Property LinesBe sure that the fence does not exceed property lines. Most fence installers recommend that all posts be set approximately 4" inside the property line. This will help avoid encroaching on adjoining property with concrete footings. This is easily done by stretching a string along the property line and setting the posts 4" inside.
Step 2 - Locate and set Terminal Posts (corner, end, and gate posts are called terminal posts)Distance between gate posts is determined by adding the actual width of the gate plus an allowance for hinges and latches. Usually walk gates require 3 3/4" for hinges and latches and double drive gates require 5 1/2". Next, dig the holes.
Terminal posts should be set 2" higher than the height of the fence fabric and line posts 2" lower than the height of the fence fabric (terminal posts should be 4" higher than the line posts). Set the terminal posts in concrete using a concrete mix. You can use 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, and 4 parts gravel. There is also pre-mix cement. Use a level to make sure the posts are straight. Posts should be centered in the hole. Crown posts footings so the water will drain away from the posts.
Step 3 - Locate and set Line PostsAfter the concrete around the terminal posts have hardened, stretch a string tight between the terminal posts. The string should be 4" below the top of the terminal posts. Line posts should not be spaced more than 10 feet apart. For example, if the length between two terminal posts is 30 feet, then line posts would be spaced 10 feet apart.
Dig the post holes and set the line posts. Before concrete begins to set, adjust post height by moving post up or down. Top of the line posts should be even with the string. Check with level to make sure posts are straight.
Step 4 - Apply Fittings to Terminal PostsCheck material list and fittings chart above. After all posts have been installed and the concrete footings have hardened, slip the tension and brace bands onto the terminal posts. The long flat surface of the tension band should face towards the outside of the fence. Take care not to spread or distort the fittings. Now apply terminal post caps.
Step 5 - Apply Top RailAttach loop caps to line posts. Insert one length of top rail pipe through the eye-top closest to one of the terminal post. Slide a rail end onto the end of the top rail and attach it to a termianl post by using the brace band (If using swedge top rail, do not insert the swedged end into the rail end). Secure the rail end to the brace band with a carriage bolt. Continue by attaching top rails together. If swedged top rail is not used, you'll connect the rail ends together by using top rail sleeve. Upon reaching the other terminal post, measure carefully and cut the top rail to fit tightly into the rail end. Secure rail end to the terminal post with brace band and carriage bolt.
Step 6 - Hang Chain Link Fabric
Unroll the chain link fabric on the ground along the fence line. Slide tension bar through the last link on the chain link fabric. Stand the fabric up and lay it against the posts. Fasten the tension bar (that you just inserted) to the terminal post with tension bands (already on the post). Use the carriage bolts with the head to the outside of the fence. Walk along the fence and take the slack out. Loosely attach fabric to top rail with a few wire ties.
To connect two sections or rolls of fence fabric together - take a single strand of wire from one of the sections of fence (Sometimes it is necessary to remove a second wire on the one end in order for the two sections to mesh properly.). Place the two section of fence next to each other (end on end). Join the two sections by winding (corkscrew fashion) the loose strand down through the fence. Join and tighten the knuckles at bottom and top. Now you shouldn't even be able to see where the two sections were connection together.
To remove excess chain link fence fabric - untie both top and bottom ends of fence (knuckles - pliers shown below). Twist the wire in a corkscrew fashion until the fence comes apart. One picket shown in red is turned until the fence is separated.
Step 7 - Stretch Chain Link FabricFabric should already be fastened to the opposite end of the fence. Insert a tension bar (may need an extra one) approximately 3 feet inside the unattached end of the fabric. Securely fasten one end of the fence stretcher to the tension bar and the other end to the terminal post. Stretch the fabric - the correct tension should allow a slight amount of give when squeezed by hand. The top of the fabric should be located approximately 1/2" above top rail. Adjust fabric to exact length by adding or removing wire as mentioned in step 6. Insert a tension bar at the end of the fabric and connect tension bands on terminal post. Remove fence stretcher. Attach wire ties to top rail 24" apart. Attach wire ties to posts 12" apart. Tighten nuts on all brace and tension bands.
Step 8 - Hanging GatesAfter the fence has been completed, install the male hinges to one of the gate posts, hanging the top hinge with pin pointing down and the bottom hinge with the pin pointing up. This will prevent the gate from being lifted off. Set gate in place, aligning top of the gate with the top of fence. Adjust and tighten hinges to allow for full swing. Install gate latch for single gates. Double gates use the same procedure but install center latching device (fork latch
We are doing one down in Olde Naples on a 1920 remodel and restoration job.One of the last finishing touches is a fence.I'll post some pictures on Website and facebook. http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com
Will your fence meet neighborhood deed restrictions.
Establish property lines.
Have your underground utilities located. (Blue staked)
If you are having your fence installed by someone, are they covered by Workman’s Compensations Insurance?
Useful tools for installing chain link fence Tape Measure
Level
Pliers
Wire Cutters
Sledge Hammer
Post Hole Digger
Wheelbarrow, Shovel and Hoe to Mix and Transport Concrete
Hacksaw or Pipe Cutter
String / Mason Line and Stakes
Crescent Wrench
Fence Stretcher (ratchet type power pull, block and tackle, or similar device may be used. Most wire stretching tools can be borrowed or locally rented.)
Step 1 - Survey Property LinesBe sure that the fence does not exceed property lines. Most fence installers recommend that all posts be set approximately 4" inside the property line. This will help avoid encroaching on adjoining property with concrete footings. This is easily done by stretching a string along the property line and setting the posts 4" inside.
Step 2 - Locate and set Terminal Posts (corner, end, and gate posts are called terminal posts)Distance between gate posts is determined by adding the actual width of the gate plus an allowance for hinges and latches. Usually walk gates require 3 3/4" for hinges and latches and double drive gates require 5 1/2". Next, dig the holes.
Terminal posts should be set 2" higher than the height of the fence fabric and line posts 2" lower than the height of the fence fabric (terminal posts should be 4" higher than the line posts). Set the terminal posts in concrete using a concrete mix. You can use 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, and 4 parts gravel. There is also pre-mix cement. Use a level to make sure the posts are straight. Posts should be centered in the hole. Crown posts footings so the water will drain away from the posts.
Step 3 - Locate and set Line PostsAfter the concrete around the terminal posts have hardened, stretch a string tight between the terminal posts. The string should be 4" below the top of the terminal posts. Line posts should not be spaced more than 10 feet apart. For example, if the length between two terminal posts is 30 feet, then line posts would be spaced 10 feet apart.
Dig the post holes and set the line posts. Before concrete begins to set, adjust post height by moving post up or down. Top of the line posts should be even with the string. Check with level to make sure posts are straight.
Step 4 - Apply Fittings to Terminal PostsCheck material list and fittings chart above. After all posts have been installed and the concrete footings have hardened, slip the tension and brace bands onto the terminal posts. The long flat surface of the tension band should face towards the outside of the fence. Take care not to spread or distort the fittings. Now apply terminal post caps.
Step 5 - Apply Top RailAttach loop caps to line posts. Insert one length of top rail pipe through the eye-top closest to one of the terminal post. Slide a rail end onto the end of the top rail and attach it to a termianl post by using the brace band (If using swedge top rail, do not insert the swedged end into the rail end). Secure the rail end to the brace band with a carriage bolt. Continue by attaching top rails together. If swedged top rail is not used, you'll connect the rail ends together by using top rail sleeve. Upon reaching the other terminal post, measure carefully and cut the top rail to fit tightly into the rail end. Secure rail end to the terminal post with brace band and carriage bolt.
Step 6 - Hang Chain Link Fabric
Unroll the chain link fabric on the ground along the fence line. Slide tension bar through the last link on the chain link fabric. Stand the fabric up and lay it against the posts. Fasten the tension bar (that you just inserted) to the terminal post with tension bands (already on the post). Use the carriage bolts with the head to the outside of the fence. Walk along the fence and take the slack out. Loosely attach fabric to top rail with a few wire ties.
To connect two sections or rolls of fence fabric together - take a single strand of wire from one of the sections of fence (Sometimes it is necessary to remove a second wire on the one end in order for the two sections to mesh properly.). Place the two section of fence next to each other (end on end). Join the two sections by winding (corkscrew fashion) the loose strand down through the fence. Join and tighten the knuckles at bottom and top. Now you shouldn't even be able to see where the two sections were connection together.
To remove excess chain link fence fabric - untie both top and bottom ends of fence (knuckles - pliers shown below). Twist the wire in a corkscrew fashion until the fence comes apart. One picket shown in red is turned until the fence is separated.
Step 7 - Stretch Chain Link FabricFabric should already be fastened to the opposite end of the fence. Insert a tension bar (may need an extra one) approximately 3 feet inside the unattached end of the fabric. Securely fasten one end of the fence stretcher to the tension bar and the other end to the terminal post. Stretch the fabric - the correct tension should allow a slight amount of give when squeezed by hand. The top of the fabric should be located approximately 1/2" above top rail. Adjust fabric to exact length by adding or removing wire as mentioned in step 6. Insert a tension bar at the end of the fabric and connect tension bands on terminal post. Remove fence stretcher. Attach wire ties to top rail 24" apart. Attach wire ties to posts 12" apart. Tighten nuts on all brace and tension bands.
Step 8 - Hanging GatesAfter the fence has been completed, install the male hinges to one of the gate posts, hanging the top hinge with pin pointing down and the bottom hinge with the pin pointing up. This will prevent the gate from being lifted off. Set gate in place, aligning top of the gate with the top of fence. Adjust and tighten hinges to allow for full swing. Install gate latch for single gates. Double gates use the same procedure but install center latching device (fork latch
We are doing one down in Olde Naples on a 1920 remodel and restoration job.One of the last finishing touches is a fence.I'll post some pictures on Website and facebook. http://www.naplesconstructiongroup.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)